Spezzato: The Art of Italian Suit Mismatching
If the fashion world was a university, Italy would be the style professor. Just think Pradam Agnelli, Valentino and Versace, to mention a few. And now we have the daring 'spezzato.' This term embraces the beauty of mismatching and is a game-changer in men's fashion. Your previous fashion faux pas may just be in fashion - it's about breaking the rules with elegance, a nod to the unconventional, and celebrating individualism.
The 'Broken' Suit: A Bold Statement
Essentially, 'spezzato' is Italian for 'broken' or 'split.' In the fashion context, it refers to the art of mismatching the jacket and trousers of two suits. It may sound easy but it is critical to understand fabrics, colours, and fits to pull it off successfully. Otherwise, you may look like you’re on the way to a fancy dress party or the local clown show.
Navigating the Spezzato Spectrum
There are two schools of thought when it comes to the spezzato style. The first, loves the stark contrast, making it abundantly clear that you're wearing two different suits. The subtler approach is more forgiving, aiming to make the mismatch appear intentional yet cohesive, similar to wearing a sports coat with odd trousers. We definitely prefer option 2.
However, true spezzato isn't about random mismatching. You're not simply throwing together separates; you're creating a new outfit from two distinct suits. It's about expanding your wardrobe without purchasing new items, allowing for creative combinations that breathe fresh life into your existing suits.
Spezzato has continued to evolve - the contemporary spezzato enthusiast might pair the classic formality of a suit jacket with the unexpected casualness of jeans or even shorts. Ralph Lauren is a great example with his love for pairing his tuxedo jackets with a pair of faded jeans. This bold statement pushes the boundaries and we love it.
Mastering the Spezzato: A Guide
Steer Clear of Overly Formal Suits
The spezzato is inherently casual. Formal suit jackets, especially those with prominent structures and patterns like pinstripes, can feel disjointed when 'broken.' Stick to textures and patterns that lend themselves to versatility (think houndstooth or windowpane).
The spezzato is inherently casual. Formal suit jackets, especially those with prominent structures and patterns like pinstripes, can feel disjointed when 'broken.' Stick to textures and patterns that lend themselves to versatility (think houndstooth or windowpane).
Fabric Harmony
Cohesion is crucial. Choose fabrics that complement each other, considering seasonality and texture. Mixing a linen jacket with flannel trousers might set you up for a spezzato clash.
Cohesion is crucial. Choose fabrics that complement each other, considering seasonality and texture. Mixing a linen jacket with flannel trousers might set you up for a spezzato clash.
Consistency in Fit
A slim-fit jacket with regular-fit trousers will just look odd. Ensure consistency in your suit fits when mixing and matching.
A slim-fit jacket with regular-fit trousers will just look odd. Ensure consistency in your suit fits when mixing and matching.
Contrast with Caution
Make sure you choose pieces that are distinctly different. Too similar, and it looks like a mismatched error. However, coordinating colours or varying shades within the same colour family can be striking.
Make sure you choose pieces that are distinctly different. Too similar, and it looks like a mismatched error. However, coordinating colours or varying shades within the same colour family can be striking.
The Unifying Element
Whether it's a consistent colour palette or a pattern that ties the ensemble together, make sure to have one element that maintains a thread of harmony.
Whether it's a consistent colour palette or a pattern that ties the ensemble together, make sure to have one element that maintains a thread of harmony.
Casualness is Key
Embrace the casual essence of spezzato. This isn't the look for your next board meeting. It's playful, relaxed, and inventive.
Embrace the casual essence of spezzato. This isn't the look for your next board meeting. It's playful, relaxed, and inventive.
Embracing the Spezzato Philosophy
Spezzato is more than a style choice; it reflects your personality. It's about the confidence to redefine norms and the creativity to see the potential in every piece of clothing. Whether you're a spezzato novice exploring subtle mismatching or a seasoned enthusiast ready to deconstruct three suits into one outfit, remember that spezzato is a journey of exploration.
So, the next time you eye your wardrobe, think beyond the prescribed combinations. Venture into the world of spezzato, and let the spirit of Italian style innovation lead your fashion style.
Armitage is a place to refine and express your personal style, so why not bring in some of your favourite pieces and try with some of ours to find your first or next Spezzato look?
